Spain
​Explore Spain through Richard Gonzmart’s favorite cities — from the vibrant streets of Madrid and the coastal magic of Barcelona to the historic wonders of Segovia and Toledo. Discover unforgettable dining, rich culture, and timeless charm across every stop.
Madrid
Two weeks after our wedding in September of 1973, Melanie and I spent our inaugural nine months of marriage in Madrid, during which time I was enrolled in the Escuela de Hosteleria y Turismo, situated in la Casa de Campo. We think of Madrid as a second home where we have life long friends.
Restaurants
Casa Benigna
Address: Benigno Soto Street, 9 - The specialty is undoubtedly Valencian-style dry rice dishes, but the appeal of this cultural heritage is not limited to the food. Casa Benigna is not a typical restaurant, In fact, its small size is designed precisely, and in the words of the owner Norberto Jorge: “… to receive friends”. Chef Norberto was born in 1946 in Alicante, Spain. Since 1990, he has been working restlessly at Casa Benigna to honour the beautiful memory of his “mom,” by bringing the steaming pot of family food and placing it in the center of the table for everyone to serve themselves, with no more protocol than the joy of sharing. He is the heartbeat of the restaurant along with his son Lars, a former opera singer. Richard Gonzmart visited in December 2024 and thought if ever a Chef/restaurant producing such innovative Paellas deserved a Michelin Star, it would be Chef Norberto Jorge and Casa Begina. The restaurant is located in a quiet neighborhood outside of central madrid.
More info: https://casabenigna.com/
Casa Paco, founded in 1933 (Reservations required)
Address: Plaza Puerta Cerrada 11 - Known for their superlative steaks and seared in boiling oil before served on plates so hot that meat continues to cook, preserving the natural juices. Located in the Old Town, this two-story restaurant has three dining rooms. In addition to steak, you can enjoy fish soup, grilled sole, baby lamb, or try Casa Paco cocido, the house version of Madrid famous chickpea and pork soup.
​More info: http://www.casapaco1933.com
Mercado San Miguel
Address: Plaza de San Miguel - San Miguel Market is the most popular market in Madrid since it is located in the center of Madrid, within walking distance from Plaza Mayor. The market is not a traditional grocery market but a fun gourmet tapas market, with over 30 different vendors selling a wide variety of freshly prepared tapas, hams, olives, baked goods and other foods. Beer, wine and champagne are also available.
More info: http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es/en/
La Bola, founded in 1870
Address: Calle de la Bola 5 - The highlight: traditional Madrileño cocido, cooked in earthenware pots by wood fire. It is a multi-course, chickpea-based stew, prepared with vegetables, potatoes and meat, and is a hearty and substantial fare, most popular during the winter, but served year-long in restaurants. Beware, the host and waitstaff can be surly.
More info » http://www.labola.es/
Casa Botín, founded in 1725
Address: Chuchilleros 17 - According to the Guinness Book of Records, this is the oldest restaurant in the world, dating from 1725. I have been dining here since 1965. Sample their house specialties that include cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and cordero asado (roast lamb). A must for first timers visiting Madrid. Reservations are recommended.
More info » http://www.casabotin.com/?q=en
La Trainera
Address: Lagasca, 60 - This restaurant stands out as one of my preferred dining destinations for exceptional seafood in Madrid. Specializes in some of the country’s best fresh fish and shellfish, and located in the glamorous shopping neighborhood of Serrano.
More info » http://www.latrainera.es/.
El Rincón de Esteban
Address: Calle de Sta. Catalina, 3, Centro, 28014 - One of those restaurants that feels like a hidden gem, even though it’s beloved by locals and visitors alike. Walking distance from the Palace Hotel and tucked near the Congreso de los Diputados, this spot combines classic Castilian cuisine with a warm, old-world charm that’s hard to find these days. The menu is a love letter to tradition—think slow-cooked cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig), tender cordero lechal (milk-fed lamb), and their signature judiones de la Granja (butter bean stew). But what truly sets it apart is the hospitality— It’s not just a meal; it’s an experience rooted in Madrid’s culinary heart.
More info: https://www.elrincondeesteban.com/
1902 Chocolateria y Churros
Address: C. de San Martín, 2 - Madrid's streets are bustling with tourists, a truly heartening sight. Key locations like Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, and Santa Ana offer a wealth of opportunities to experience Flamenco and visit iconic attractions, complemented by an array of churro vendors. After sampling three newcomers, 1902 Chocolateria y Churros retains its coveted status for me. Enjoy leisurely mornings and active evenings, indulging in the simple pleasure of freshly fried churros paired with a rich, satisfying cup of bold hot chocolate is always a treat.
More info: https://chocolateria1902.com/
Casa Lucio
Address: C. de la Cava Baja, 35, Centro, 28005 Madrid - Casa Lucio remains in the location that once was home to the hundred-year old Mesón El Segoviano, a magnificent restaurant where Lucio Blázquez began to work. Today they serve rustic Spanish cuisine, including egg dishes (Huevos Estrellandose a Patatas Fritas “Broken fried eggs over fried potatoes”) & Rabo (bull's tail stew), in a quaint spot opened in 1974. Reservations are strongly suggested.
More info: https://casalucio.es/en/
Lhardy Restaurante, founded in 1839
Address: Cra de S. Jerónimo, 8, Centro, 28014 Madrid - This 1839 restaurant has long-stood as a symbol of elegance and sophistication in Madrid. It features a deli and takeaway service on the ground floor and a formal restaurant on the second floor. Upstairs, the atmosphere is opulent – with red velvet, dark wood and huge fires for grilling meats and vegetables. The menu is simple and delicious, concentrated on grilled vegetables, steaks and Madrileño stew "Cocido".
More info: https://lhardy.com/en/
Accommodations
The Westin Palace Hotel
Address: Plaza de las Cortes, 7 - This luxurious hotel is currently undergoing renovations. It has been host to many celebrities from all over the world. Needless to say, the Westin Palace is aptly palatial. The hotel was built in 1912, and enjoys a rather enviable situation in Madrid; it is in front of the Prado Museum, between the Thyssen Museum and the Parliament, right at the corner of Paseo la Castellana. I have been staying at the Palace since 1965 where my parents were invited and hosted by Spanish dictator, Francisco Franco! Every now and then, we choose to stay at one of the newer hotels only to return home to the Palace.
Shopping
Artestilo
Address: Paseo del Prado, 12-28014 - Located across the street from El Prado Museum. Artestilo is operated by Carlos Sanchez, one of Richard and Melanie's closest friends in the world. This store sells hand-made items and other traditional Spanish articles. The store displays top quality items such as LLadro, Nao, Algora and Príncipe porcelain, Majorica pearls, ceramics from Talavera, Seville and Valencia, among others and bronze figures and sculptures. They accept all credit cards and currencies.
More info: http://www.artestilo.com/osc/
Calle Serrano (Serrano Street)
Address: Address: (Serrano Street) - Calle Serrano is home to designer shops, art boutiques and everything in between. The best in up-market specialty shopping can be found on this popular street. The street of Serrano in the Salamanca district is known as Madrid's "Golden Mile" of shops. You will find top designers such as Purificación García, Roberto Verino, Ermenegildo Zegna and Yves Saint Laurent.
Attractions
Gran Via
Address: Plaza de las Cortes, 7 - This luxurious hotel is currently undergoing renovations. It has been host to many celebrities from all over the world. Needless to say, the Westin Palace is aptly palatial. The hotel was built in 1912, and enjoys a rather enviable situation in Madrid; it is in front of the Prado Museum, between the Thyssen Museum and the Parliament, right at the corner of Paseo la Castellana. I have been staying at the Palace since 1965 where my parents were invited by Francisco Franco! Every now and then, I choose to stay at one of the newer hotels only to return home to the Palace. The one street you shouldn't miss is the Gran Via, a showcase of early 20th century architecture. This lively street is one of the city's most important shopping areas. What makes this street so special is the architectural design of many of the large buildings.
Puerta del Sol
The heart of Madrid's historic center. The plaza's name originates from the eastern city gate located in the 15th century. The gate was probably called after a sun drawn on it, hence the name Puerta del Sol or 'Sun Gate'. It is ground zero (kilometre zero) to the rest of Spain.
Plaza Mayor
A grand arcaded square in the center of Madrid.
Museums
The Prado Museum
Address: Paseo del Prado s/n - This museum contains the world's finest collection of Spanish paintings, including masterpieces by El Greco, Velázquez and Goya.
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum
Address: Paseo del Prado, 8 - This museum has a large selection of Italian Primitives. There are also excellent examples of German Renaissance and Dutch 17th century paintings and 19th century American paintings.
Segovia
Segovia is Spain and Castile at its best-twisting alleyways, the highest concentration of Romanesque churches in all of Europe, pedestrian streets where no cars are allowed, all surrounded by the city's medieval wall, which itself is bordered by two rivers and an extensive green-belt park with miles of shaded walks.
Restaurants
José María
Address: Cronista Lecea 11 - This centrally located bar and restaurant, 1 block east of Segovia’s Plaza Mayor, is one of Richard Gonzmart’s favorite restaurants in Spain. They serve quality regional cuisine in a rustic stucco-and-brick dining room. Before dinner, locals crowd in for tapas at the bar, and then move into the dining room for such Castilian specialties as roast suckling pig, rural-style conger eel, and freshly caught sea bream. The roast suckling pig falls from the bone. José María also owns Pago de Carraovejas, a respected winery in Ribera del Duero.
More info: http://www.rtejosemaria.com/
Accommodations
Alcázar of Segovia
Address: Pl. Reina Victoria Eugenia, s/n, 40003 Segovia, Spain - On the north-west extreme of the wall is the famous Alcázar castle, source of inspiration to Walt Disney, and where Queen Isabel promised Columbus the financial backing he needed to discover America. On the south-east side of the wall is the world-renowned Roman Aqueduct, the largest and best preserved of its kind anywhere. It served as the mint mark on all coins struck in the city from 1455 to 1864.
More info: https://www.alcazardesegovia.com/
Barcelona
Barcelona's culture is rich, stemming from the city's 2,000 years of history.
To a greater extent than the rest of Catalonia, where Catalonia's native Catalan is more dominant. Barcelona is a bilingual city: Catalan and Spanish are both official and widely spoken.
Restaurants
Los Caracoles
Address: Escudellers 14 - As you walk down Escudellers, you are drawn by the aroma of roasting chickens. This classic restaurant, founded in 1835, has them on an outside spit, on an open fire built into the side of the edifice and you enter through the main kitchen, with steaming posts and hot under the collar cooks. Inside it's a labyrinth; stairways lead to even more dining rooms and private, one-table nooks are hidden under stairs. The place oozes with atmosphere and the cuisine is Catalan comfort food.
More info: http://www.loscaracoles.es/
7 Portes
Address: Pg. d'Isabel II, 14, Ciutat Vella, 08003 - One of those classic restaurants that feels like it’s been part of the city forever—in the best way. Known for its incredible paella and traditional Catalan dishes, every bite feels carefully crafted and full of history. The atmosphere is timeless, with white tablecloths, polished wood and a sense that important conversations have happened here over countless meals. Whether you go for their famous arroz caldoso or a seafood dish, you’re in for something special. It’s the kind of place that leaves you with a deeper appreciation for Barcelona’s culinary heritage.
More info: https://7portes.com/en/
Can Culleretes
Address: C/ Quintana 5 - Founded in 1786, Can Culleretes is, according to The Guinness Book of Records, the oldest restaurant of Barcelona and the second oldest of Spain. You will be able to taste the typical food of the Catalan kitchen. It is located in the Gothic District of Barcelona, next to Las Rambles.
More info: http://www.culleretes.com/en/home
Cal Pep
Address: Plaça des les Olles 8 - One of the most known Tapas restaurants and dining secrets of Barcelona, Cal Pep lies close to the Picasso Museum and is a slice of local life. It is generally packed and the food is some of the tastiest in the Old Town. You'll find the typical food of the Catalan kitchen.
More info: htthttp://www.calpep.com/
Boadas (cocktail bar)
Address: Carrer dels Tallers, 1, El Raval, Barcelona, 08001 - When in Barcelona, make time for a visit to Boadas cocktail bar—my personal favorite bar in the city. As the oldest cocktail bar in Barcelona, it exudes timeless charm with its Art Deco interior and bartenders dressed in classic formalwear. Every cocktail is crafted with precision and tradition, and you can taste the history in every sip. It’s not just a bar; it’s an experience, a place where stories are shared and time seems to slow down. For anyone who loves a perfectly made drink and an atmosphere rich with character, Boadas is simply unparalleled.
Estimar
Address: Carrer de Sant Antoni dels Sombrerers, 3, Ciutat Vella, 08003 - Estimar is the one Michelin Star restaurant I never tire to visit. It’s tucked-away in town and features an open kitchen. Small, but elegant. Known for its inventive seafood dishes & cheesecake.
One of Richard’s favorites. Reservations needed.
Accommodations
Hotel Le Meridian
Address: La Rambla 111 - Conveniently and ideally situated on the famous Las Ramblas, the iconic boulevard of leisure and entertainment in Barcelona. Le Meridian Hotel is often referred to as the 'stars hotel', as many world famous personalities have crossed the threshold.
Attractions
La Rambla (Flower Market)
Five separate street strung end to end, La Rambla (also called Las Ramblas) is a tree-lined pedestrian boulevard packed with buskers (a person who entertains people for money in public places); living statues, mimes and itinerant salespeople selling everything from lottery tickets to jewelry. The noisy bird market on the second block is worth a stop.
Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família
La Sagrada Familia is truly awe-inspiring. The life's work of Barcelona's favorite son, Antoni Guadí, the magnificent spires of the unfinished cathedral imprint themselves boldly against the sky with swelling outlines inspired by the holy mountain Montserrat. Gaudí died in 1926 before his masterwork was completed, and since then, controversy has continually dogged the building program. Nevertheless, the southwestern façade, with four more towers, is almost done, and the nave, begun in 1978, is progressing.
Museums
Museu Picasso
Address: Montcada, 15-23 - The museum of Picasso is Barcelona's most visited museum. It is housed in three strikingly beautiful stone mansions on the Carrer de Montcado, which was, in the medieval times, an approach to the port. The museum shows numerous works that trace the artists early years, and is especially strong on his Blue Period, and his early works from the 1890s.
More info: http://www.museupicasso.bcn.cat/en/
Toledo
Toledo is a city and municipality located in central Spain, 40 miles south of Madrid. It is the capital of the province of Toledo and of the autonomous community of Castile-La Mancha. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986 for its extensive cultural and monumental heritage as one of the former capitals of the Spanish Empire and place of coexistence of Christian, Jewish and Moorish cultures.
Restaurants
Venta de Aires
Address: Paseo Circo Romano 35 - Venta de Aires is the only Centenary Restaurant in Castilla-La Mancha and in Toledo. Founded in 1891, with more than 120 years of serving guest the best food in the region. Famous for our stew partridge. Here you will experience an exquisite blend of historical flavors with the latest contemporary trends.
More info: htthttp://www.ventadeaires.com/
Adolfo Restaurante
Address: 6 Calle de la Granada - Spain's La Mancha region of Toledo brings to mind El Greco and Don Quixote, not usually world-class wine or food. Adolfo Muñoz is helping to change that at his restaurant, Adolfo. Mr. Muñoz, the influential chef and restaurateur, has a wine list with more than 40,000 bottles. What started life as an asador—a rustic place specializing in roasts—has evolved into one of the most sophisticated kitchens in Spain, highlighting regional ingredients such as olive oil, saffron, Manchego cheese and Alto Tajo truffles. The result is dishes such as delicate shrimp in a passion fruit vinaigrette or perfect raw oysters afloat in an intensely flavored tomato gelée. King Juan Carlos once declared Adolfo's partridge to be the best in Spain.
More info:http://www.adolforestaurante.com/
Sevilla
Sevilla, the capital of Spain's Andalusia region, is a vibrant city located in the southern part of the country along the banks of the Guadalquivir River. Known for its rich cultural tapestry,
Sevilla boasts an array of historic landmarks, including the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Seville Cathedral, the Alcázar, and the General Archive of the Indies. Once a pivotal hub during Spain's Golden Age of exploration, the city is celebrated for its enduring traditions like flamenco dancing, lively festivals such as Feria de Abril, and its blend of Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture.
Restaurants
Casa Robles
Address: Calle Álvarez Quintero. 58, 41004 Sevilla - Casa Robles is a restaurant you simply must visit in Sevilla. This 70-year-old, family-owned restaurant perfectly captures the essence of Andalusian cuisine, blending tradition with an elevated approach. Their Iberian ham is outstanding, and the seafood dishes are some of the best I’ve ever had. The warm, inviting atmosphere and exceptional service make every meal feel special. It’s the kind of place that not only celebrates the flavors of the region but also leaves you with a deep appreciation for Spanish culinary heritage.
More info: https://www.casarobles.es/
El Rinconcillo
Address: C. Gerona, 40, Casco Antiguo, 41003 Sevilla, Spain - El Rinconcillo is a must-visit gem in Sevilla and a true slice of history. Established in 1670, it is the oldest tapas bar in the city, offering an authentic taste of traditional Andalusian cuisine. The menu features classic tapas, hearty Spanish mains, and an extensive wine list that perfectly complements the dishes. The rustic charm of its historic interiors and the warm, lively atmosphere make dining here an unforgettable experience. El Rinconcillo is more than a restaurant; it’s a journey into the heart of Sevilla’s culinary and cultural heritage.
More info: https://www.elrinconcillo.es/
Accommodations
Hotel Alphonso XIII
Address: C. San Fernando, 2, Casco Antiguo, 41004 - If you're visiting Sevilla, staying—or at least stopping—at Hotel Alfonso XIII is an experience in itself. This iconic hotel, commissioned by King Alfonso XIII in 1929, is a stunning example of Andalusian elegance, blending Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance styles in every intricate detail. Whether you’re enjoying a cocktail in the majestic Bar Americano, indulging in tapas at ENA by Carles Abellán, or simply admiring the grand architecture and lush gardens, every corner feels steeped in history and luxury. It’s not just a hotel; it’s a landmark that embodies the spirit of Sevilla. Even if you’re not staying overnight, I’d recommend stopping by for a drink or a meal—you’ll understand why it’s one of Spain’s most celebrated hotels.
Hotel Colón Gran Meliá
Address: C. Canalejas, 1, Casco Antiguo, 41001 - For a stay that blends modern luxury with classic Andalusian charm, Hotel Colón Gran Meliá is an exceptional choice. Located in the heart of the city, just steps from the historic center, this hotel combines contemporary design with nods to Sevilla’s rich artistic heritage. The rooms are elegant and spacious, with thoughtful details that make you feel instantly at ease. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace—it offers stunning views of the Giralda, especially at sunset. The on-site restaurant serves refined Andalusian cuisine, and the service throughout the hotel is polished yet warm. Whether you're staying for a few nights or just stopping by for a meal or cocktail, Hotel Colón Gran Meliá captures Sevilla’s spirit in a way that feels both timeless and refreshingly modern.
